Tuesday January 5th
Agnes Water is the east coast’s most northerly surf beach
whilst the tiny Town of 1770 marks Captain Cook’s first landing in the state,
and the hamlet is known as the “birthplace of Queensland”. Just south is
Deepwater National Park which is a breeding ground for loggerhead turtles.
Our next destination was Rockhampton the beef capital of
Australia. As we drove along the plains widened and were filled with cattle; in
a 250km radius of Rockhampton there are over 2.5million cattle. (I love some
statistics!) It is the administrative and commercial capital of central
Queensland and is a large, sprawling town with many fine Victorian buildings.
It became prosperous
during the gold and copper mining In the 19th century. We picknicked by the Fitzroy river then went to see the spire
which signifies the tropic of Capricorn.
From Rockhampton we had another long drive (we’ve covered
over 2500km in 4 days!) and stopped briefly at Mackay, a typical Queensland
coastal town with palm lined streets and art deco buildings.
Leaving Mackay the urban sprawl gave way to the lush greenness of Pioneer Valley where
the scent of sugar cane wafts through the heat and loaded cane trains, over a
hundred trucks long rattle along on the track beside us. The fringe of the
Clarke range of mountains provides an ideal frame for the expanse of tropical
and subtropical vegetation. This area has been isolated from other rainforest
areas for thousands of years and now has several unique species, including the
Eungella gastric-brooding frog which incubates its eggs in its stomach and then
gives birth by spitting out the tadpoles!
Just as the sun was beginning to set we arrived at the
campsite, which, on a first impression (in the dark) looks awesome. It has by
far and away the best campsite kitchen I have ever seen (Though I know it’s a
few years since I have been camping.) It is outdoor, has two huge gas
barbecues, kettles, toasters, microwave, and a huge fridge/ freezer, plenty of
tables and a tv. The site also boasts two pools, both landscaped with waving
palms and a “beach”, superb shower block with washing machines and driers and
an outside washing line for communal use. And all for £7 per person per night!
It doesn’t look very full either, large plots amongst the trees. One
drawback—masses of mosquitoes, fortunately I remembered , at the last minute,
the repellent! It is incredibly hot and humid; we’re back in Miri…






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