April 3rd 2015
Arrived in Morocco on the early flight and was immediately captivated by the scenery. The sunshine and the palm trees I had been expecting but the sight of the Atlas mountains topped with snow which provided the backdrop was surprising. Our hotel proved to be in the centre of the city right next to the Jemaa el Fan so we lost no time in a refreshing drink then set out to explore.
The vast square in the centre of the city, known as the Jemaa el Fan was a bustling, noisy and vibrant place,
though it really comes to life at night when storytellers, acrobats, snake charmers and others all come to entertain the crowds. During the day there were foodstalls and markets and, of course, carpets.
Then we went to the souks, the area north of the square where most of the vibrant markets are concentrated. Almost impossible to move and totally impossible to stop without inviting the urgent entreaties of stall owners, it is amazing to think that so many people selling the same things can actually make a living. Fascinating and very lively but just too overwhelming!
We ended the day with a delicious meal in one of the better known restaurants around the square, lamb and apricot tagline with couscous followed by oranges in cinnamon.
April 4th
After a hearty breakfast, highlights real orange juice and delicious Moroccan yoghurt we went off to the Baba Agnaou, one of the city gates. The entrance is surrounded by concentric arches of decoration and topped with an inscription which, translated, means "Enter with blessing, serene people.
We then moved on to watch the metalworkers beating out those lovely lanterns which can be bought in any French summer market, had lunch in the square (Charles named Ali Baba by all the waiters because of his beard!) and then went to the amazing El Badi Palace.
This is a huge, impressive ruin with sunken gardens and storks nesting on the battlements.
Mint and lemon cocktails followed before dinner then back to watch the show in the main square.
April 5th
An early start today as we ventured off to the tanneries which everyone said we must see. Unfortunately we were very disappointed, both at the hard sell of people on the gates of the tanning yards, but also at the general lack of activity as well as the seediness of the area.
A very long walk through the opening souks took us to the beautiful former gardens of Yves St Laurent in the Ville Nouvelle. This is a 12 acre garden, called the Majorelle Garden after its designer, full of bamboo,palms, cacti, ornamental pools and a pavilion painted in a striking blue, supposedly the colour of French workmen's overalls.
We stayed some time enjoying this lovely place then walked back to the old town, calling in at the Dar Si Said, a nineteenth century mansion, on our way back.
Arrived in Morocco on the early flight and was immediately captivated by the scenery. The sunshine and the palm trees I had been expecting but the sight of the Atlas mountains topped with snow which provided the backdrop was surprising. Our hotel proved to be in the centre of the city right next to the Jemaa el Fan so we lost no time in a refreshing drink then set out to explore.
The vast square in the centre of the city, known as the Jemaa el Fan was a bustling, noisy and vibrant place,
though it really comes to life at night when storytellers, acrobats, snake charmers and others all come to entertain the crowds. During the day there were foodstalls and markets and, of course, carpets.
We next visited the Ben Youssef Madera, a mediaeval Koranic School with the most intricate cedar
wood carving
and tiled walls.
It was founded in the fourteenth century and almost completely rebuilt in the 1560s.
The city's emblem, the Koutobia, is a minaret about 70m high with beautiful gardens complete with orange trees. (and not leaning; blame the photographer!)
Then we went to the souks, the area north of the square where most of the vibrant markets are concentrated. Almost impossible to move and totally impossible to stop without inviting the urgent entreaties of stall owners, it is amazing to think that so many people selling the same things can actually make a living. Fascinating and very lively but just too overwhelming!
We ended the day with a delicious meal in one of the better known restaurants around the square, lamb and apricot tagline with couscous followed by oranges in cinnamon.
April 4th
After a hearty breakfast, highlights real orange juice and delicious Moroccan yoghurt we went off to the Baba Agnaou, one of the city gates. The entrance is surrounded by concentric arches of decoration and topped with an inscription which, translated, means "Enter with blessing, serene people.
The tombs of the Saadians, a ruling dynasty from 1554 - 1669, escaped plundering because, fearing bad luck the subsequent ruler had them blocked up and they remained half ruined and forgotten until they were rediscovered in a French aerial survey in 1917.
We then moved on to watch the metalworkers beating out those lovely lanterns which can be bought in any French summer market, had lunch in the square (Charles named Ali Baba by all the waiters because of his beard!) and then went to the amazing El Badi Palace.
This is a huge, impressive ruin with sunken gardens and storks nesting on the battlements.
It dates from the 16th century and the central courtyard is 130m long and almost as wide. Guest quarters were built for visiting dignitaries, almost like terraced houses.
The Bahia palace was next, built on a much less grand scale but very lovely and one could imagine actually living here.
Mint and lemon cocktails followed before dinner then back to watch the show in the main square.
April 5th
An early start today as we ventured off to the tanneries which everyone said we must see. Unfortunately we were very disappointed, both at the hard sell of people on the gates of the tanning yards, but also at the general lack of activity as well as the seediness of the area.
Heading north we stopped at the Zaouia of Sidi Bel Abbes, a mosque which houses the tomb of this, the most important of Marrakech's seven saints.
A very long walk through the opening souks took us to the beautiful former gardens of Yves St Laurent in the Ville Nouvelle. This is a 12 acre garden, called the Majorelle Garden after its designer, full of bamboo,palms, cacti, ornamental pools and a pavilion painted in a striking blue, supposedly the colour of French workmen's overalls.
We stayed some time enjoying this lovely place then walked back to the old town, calling in at the Dar Si Said, a nineteenth century mansion, on our way back.
For our last dinner Charles selected the Dar Mima, a townhouse converted into a small restaurant and the food was absolutely delicious.
We really enjoyed our stay in Marrakech, the people were friendly and helpful, there was an abundance of things to see and do, beautiful, hot weather , plenty of refreshing cafés; the only negative was the impossibility of passing through the souks without being dragged in to buy. Definitely recommended for a short break.
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