My last day in Uganda :-(

I went to visit the Roman Catholic cathedral this morning in the Rubaga district of Kampala. It was the first time I have been anywhere and been conscious that I was the only mzungu. It is an enormous cathedral, perhaps unsurprisingly more ornate than its Anglican counterpart. Partly built out of pink stone it is very light and open.

 There is a memorial to the Ugandan martyrs, a group of Christians, Roman Catholics and Anglicans who were murdered by Mwanga 11 the king of Buganda  between1885 and 1887, and the tombs of two past bishops before independence. 


Travelling around over the past weeks I have been amused by some of the signs. Uganda is a very openly Christian country and it is quite common to find some unusual "religious" names for schools, offices, shops etc. Some of my favourites;


Jesus Christ is Lord Full Fat Milk


Psalm 23 General Store


On the back of a bus :   Work is a blessing from God


Sacred Heart Primary School Day and Boarding  "No pain, no gain."


Divine Kindergarden : Toil to excel


Fatty G Unisex Beauty Salon 


and I loved this on the side of a school; (click to enlarge as usual)

So, the end of my travels for now. Australia in March so, watch this space. Thanks for reading! Mary

This morning I decided to walk into the city and as I got down the road was able to stride along to a marching band assembled at the landing strip at the bottom of Kololo hill. (Used by the president when he comes to Kampala.)

The President

The band belonged to a parade of volunteers who were marching as part of International Volunteer Day (you didn't think of that, did you Mr Cameron?) As I walked by they produced a rousing rendition of When The Saints.

I called in to inspect the Lawn Tennis Association of Uganda where they were busy clearing the courts after yesterday's downpour.

and got a quick shot of the street cleaners with their twigs.

I think one of the things that surprises me most is how strong a hold the communications industry has and how much this has developed in the years since we lived in third world countries. Absolutely everyone has a mobile, and internet cafes and access points are everywhere. The ad here will give you some idea as well as  indicating the massive numbers involved in every shopping transaction!

Having happily people -watched at the cafe I went to get a boda back home when I realised I should have prepared more carefully- in what I was wearing (a short, straight skirt) there was no chance at all of getting on a motor bike decently let alone elegantly! So I joined the constant procession of pedestrians and walked back. I have still not perfected an African walking pace though it is faster than most Brazilians and certainly easier than the Miri shuffle.
This afternoon actually played tennis and realised how much I have missed it! Ended the day with a super meal at the Enim Pasha; the first place we went to when we came here last year......

Kampala

A 5.30 a.m. departure from the hotel Saturday morning and, much to my amazement, no problems at all with Precision Air, so arrived back in Kampala around 2 o'clock. Last night we went to the Kampala Amateur Dramatic Society pantomime at the National Theatre here in Kampala. Although some of the gags were obviously "in" jokes I found it very funny and entertaining and the audience were fantastic; lots of shouting and heckling. I am always amazed at the hidden talents in ex-pat communities, particularly as I am so lacking in that respect! Eating out after the show I was struck again at how lovely it is to be out at night, however dark it is, when it is warm.

Sunday morning we went to the International Church and again,it seemed to be a really committed congregation who, I have to say, seemed to be having more fun than one does in churches in Europe. Food for thought anyway. After church we went to have lunch at Mish Mash; a project headed by two refugees from the strain and stress of the City. They have bought a beautiful house and turned it into a show place for artists and crafts people of all kinds as well as a cafe and bar. There were some particularly lovely paintings but difficult to fit into a suitcase... In the mood we then went off to the local craft market where I (almost) finished my Christmas shopping!

In the evening we played Banangrams again and I have yet to win one game. Mortified !

Zanzibar!

Monday

A tremendous thunderstorm woke me up well in time for the &.30 am pick up for attempt number 2. Despite the heavy Monday morning traffic we were at the airport well in time for check in. After visiting Precision Airlines office about the fiasco yesterday I obtained the necessary paperwork, was able to change my return flight to make up for the lost day and was promised I  would get to Zanzibar tonight. Absolutely the most tedious part of travel must be waiting around in airports and I feel I have seen more than my share of Entebbe airport. Fortunately a good book,( On Green Dolphin Street - Sebastian Faulks -) helped to pass the time as did a growing camaraderie between the passengers, a handful of Ugandans, A Zimbabwean professor visiting her PhD students in Tanzania and a group of American backpackers who have been doing voluntary work for the last three months. The ominous arrival of Precision Airways (what a misnomer) staff brought more lunch vouchers and notice of a flight delay, but we eventually took off to cheers only two hours late.
After flying over the Rift Valley and the Serengeti where we could actually see herds of animals though not close enough to see what they were, we arrived at Kilimanjaro where the mountain was clearly visible, then it was back on the plane for the next leg to Dar es Salaam. Arriving in Dar we were met by the Precision Airways rep who told us that they had not held the connecting flight as promised and would have to spend the night in Dar. A huge row broke out, helped by immigration officials who realised that we had been taken through immigration without checks and also we were not on the flight manifest! There is something oddly comforting about travelling with a group of Americans; they are so confidently right and have such high expectations as well as being very articulate when confronted with the indifference, in this case of airline ground staff. However, after many phone calls, it was generally agreed that there was nothing for it but to repair to the hotel. Actually it was a very good hotel with an infinity pool on the rooftop with 360degree views of Dar. I joined the Americans for dinner which finished at around 11.30pm, went to bed only to be woken at 3.45 am to be told that the driver was there to take me to the airport. I went down to investigate and there were some passengers going to Arusha on the 8 am flight but they didn't know which ones so they were ringing everyone in the hotel to find out!

A wet morning in Dar.

Tuesday

We had an early start for the horrendous rush hour traffic and were all very happy when the flight left for the 20 minute trip to Zanzibar. At midday we made it!!! My driver was waiting (third time lucky) and we came straight to the hotel. Zanzibar is everything I imagined it to be. We passed through plantations of palms, bananas, papaya and several small villages until we came to the coast. WOW! White sand turquoise sea; there really are not enough superlatives. My room is a semi detached chalet right on the edge of a two metre cliff down to the beach,

with an enormous bed so high they provided a step to get into it.

when I arrived the sea was miles away

(yes this is the view from my room!)

as I write this it is directly below me and looking from the room it is like being on a boat. it is just unutterably beautiful. I ate dinner outside on the terrace overlooking the sea. The lights from the hotel were flickering on the water shining right through the clear water to the sand beneath.

Wednesday

This morning I went for a long walk along the beach taking photos almost non stop; I can't get over the beauty of the place.; it just goes on and on.

Everyone passing shouts out "Jambo" (msungu sometimes) then "Welcome. How are you today?" "Fine thanks, how are you?" " I'm very fine thank you". It's a set script I think.

Having walked miles wondering why I have waited so long to come here, I suddenly realised I had to walk all the way back! As it was getting very hot on the beach I decided to return via the village (Jumbiani) which runs parallel to the beach.The houses are mainly made from the coral rock on which the hotel is built . Many of the buildings are deserted, and all of them are very basic.

After all this exertion a lazy afernoon by the pool followed.

Thursday

I started off the day with a swim in the Indian Ocean. A long sandbar extends out to sea thus keeping the beach in front of the hotel safe for bathing. The coral is concentrated on an area immediately in front of the hotel but it is possible to walk on it. After swimming I discovered just how much time one can watch sand crabs scuttling about and dashing for their holes at the first sign of movement. Having learned from yesterday's  experience I decided not to walk too far so followed the sand bar out to the next bay.

I am surprised by my lack of will to leave my seaside heaven. I had intended to visit various places but can't drag myself away. I spent the afternoon pottering around near the hotel and went back in to the village. One lasting image- I have it on video- a group of little boys dragging lorries behind them on pieces of string; the lorries were made out of cut out plastic bottles, but they couldn't have been having more fun. I filmed them and played it back for them and they ran off giggling and shrieking. Sadly many of the children, especially boys, don't seem to go to school. The girls look like little nuns with their long dresses and scarves. (It's a Muslim state; at one time the Sultan of Oman removed his capital there from Muscat)

Friday

Another day starting with a swim in the ocean then off to one of the outside loungers to read. They are like double beds with a shade canopy and are dotted around all over the grounds.

When it became too hot there was always the pool....

an infinity pool with a shelf all the way round to sit and contemplate the ocean.

I tried to take my photo in the mirror windows....

As the afternoon began to cool down I walked the other way along the beach , watching the tide carefully as it comes in extremely rapidly. In the rock pools there were small fish and starfish amongst others.

and a good view of the hotel restaurant on top of the cliff. Curiously there were lots of different kinds of shrubs and trees growing straight out of the coral.

(The seaweed is harvested by the villagers.) At intervals along the beach are various hotels and restaurants. The sign for this one amused me.....

All too soon it was my last night in Zanzibar. On Monday I would never have thought how very, very glad I was not to cancel the trip. It is a remarkable place and just being here has made me think again about what is really important in this life.... it's not there by accident!

We arrived at the hotel last night to be greeted by a power cut. We were shown to my room by candlelight and the first impression was of size; it had a sitting area with a sofa and two chairs as well as an enormous bed and the largest wardrobes I have ever seen. William checked all the security bars and doors, which made me even more worried, then they left me to the Bates hotel!  In fact by the light of day it was absolutely fine, if slightly dilapidated. I was wakened by the gardener sweeping up leaves the same way as the people who  sweep the road side; with a large bunch of twigs.

From my room

After a rather peculiar breakfast I settled down to read before my taxi  came but the next occupants arrived, complete with sixteen suitcases so I made my exit and went to wait in the refined, rarified atmosphere of Entebbe airport. It all went very quickly downhill from thereon. The flight was delayed by two hours, but I was assured that the connection would be held , we were given vouchers for lunch and then at 2.30 they announced that the flight was cancelled! Chaos ensued as we had to reclaim baggage and wait for the airline to allocate us to taxis either to their hotel or back home. So twenty hours after leaving home for Zanzibar I returned to William and Gemma's appartment! I am assured that we will be on the flight tomorrow and they will be sending a car for me......

To help make up for the disappointment William and Gemma had kindly organised dinner out. (Especially thoughtful as Liverpool v Man City was being shown live on tv.) We went to the Khana Kazana for a delicious curry then did a little late night shopping for (European) ice cream  all of which helped to restore my sense of humour!

So, Zanzibar tomorrow! 

 (Blog suspended until Saturday when I return (dv) to Kampala.)

Back at the Kampala International School for a Christmas fair. Amazingly I bumped into someone I used to know twenty years ago in Miri! Good to catch up though. We watched a super childrens' choir and an African dance group of teenagers,very lively indeed!

Part of the campus

and the eight lane 50m   pool

Off to Zanzibar tomorrow but having discovered that the road to the airport will be closed for the Kampala marathon I decided it would be easier to stay in Entebbe tonight. Unfortunately many other people have obviously decided the same and it was very much no room at the inn. After ages on the phone I have managed to find somewhere... more later......

Our plans for a barbecue round the pool were scuppered by rain but a barbecue on the balcony proved a good alternative.

I have no idea what the internet connection will be like in Zanzibar, but will be back when I can!

After a morning reading and swimming this afternoon we went to Wamala Tomb, 12 km northwest of Kampala.

The road to Hoima

One of the means of earning a living in the villages is making bricks, by hand, out of the clay. They are then stacked to dry usually with palm leaves over the top to prevent the top ones drying out too quickly.

We had to leave the tar road and drive for a couple of miles up the hills until we got to the tomb, and were met by our guide who broke off from tending her garden and changed into her "uniform". She insisted we sign the visitors book - the last visitors were in September.

The tomb is the former palace and resting place of Kakaba (King) Mutesa 1's father who died in 1856. He was a keen hunter and had a sizeable menagerie of lions, leopards, elephants etc.( Mutesa's tomb was apparently bigger and more impressive but it was burnt down a couple of years ago and, despite it being a major historical site, nothing has been done to restore it.)

Noting the concrete floor and supporting beams William was very sceptical but in fact I found it fascinating. There was a curtain screening the tomb, beyond which we were not allowed to go but the construction of the hut was amazing. The roof was made by coils of some sort of grass, used as beams placed in circles with more grasses plaited in.

The roof was held up by whole tree trunks. In front of the tomb was a collection of the king's spears and shields.

Sadly the place has fallen into disrepair and it seems  a shame to lose such an important part of the past. The roof was falling down in places and consequently the tomb had recently been flooded with the rain.
Leaving the hut we were asked to back out of the royal presence. An amazing place but I wonder if it will still be there in a few years....

Back in Kampala this evening we went to a quiz night at the Kampala International School whose campus would put many universities to shame. The quiz was in aid of a new school development some way out of Kampala;  the total build budget  for a main hall for 600 students, dormitory for 50 students, classrooms, kitchen, staff house and washroom block plus a bore hole and pump for clean water is £100,000! All the labour is given free. 100 exercise books can be purchased for £16  and text books for a whole year group cost £280. It is really quite humbling.

Incidentally we were only a few points behind the winners. We had some French diplomatic staff on our team so kept up the Gallic connection!

Today I returned to the Tanzanian Commission to get my passport back, complete with visa. We then went on to a superb Belgian patisserie for lunch; far too much temptation! On the way back we called at several of the local roadside pottery stalls to select some more pots for my garden. (To come back in the shipping.)

We came across a man transporting this coffin on a motor bike. Note the viewing window!

This being the end of the rainy season we have had a couple of very heavy rainstorms today, reminding me very much of the rainy season in Malaysia. The sky in the picture of Emin Pasha where we went for tea says it all.

Another two contrasts:

The cafe at the end of the road;

and the one in the shopping centre.

William went off to play football and Gemma was doing some work so it was very quiet and I have just been sitting on the balcony watching the kites circling and drifting overhead. They seem to appear every evening around dusk and this evening there were about sixteen of them all covering the same patch.  The electricity then went down (again) and the generator came on breaking the silence. Apparently Prince Edward was here at the High Commission a couple of weeks ago and when he had gone the newspapers reported that he was going to solve the problem of electrical supply in Uganda! Keep trying YRH.

I had to go to the Tanzanian High Commission this morning to get a visa for Zanzibar  (everything "official" seems to cost $50....) and thought I would take a few contrast photos. So;

The Garden City Shopping Mall

and shops on Namirembe Hill

and downtown

Rush hour in the leafy suburbs

and on the Jinja Road

  I managed to get myself lost this afternoon whilst walking down to the (not so local!)shops. Fortunately I have a Ugandan sim card and could call for directions but was getting rather tired of "Hello muzungu" every five minutes. ; I started to laugh at the thought of greeting people in London, "Hello black person". In fact it is a perfectly pleasant and acceptable greeting here. (Well, white person.)  

I was very pleased in a patriotic way to find the our CD plates are CD1 ; with other embassies taking the numbers after.  The Americans are CD2 !!  Apparently, with money, any number plate is OK. I have seen THE BOSS and YASSER on different cars so far.  Most people tend to drive 4WD simply because the roads are so awful.

Just because I like the photo I include one of the smiling faces of Uganda.